Coachella's taquerias

Coachella is a farming town and the food follows

Coachella sits at the east end of the valley, past Indio, and it is a working agricultural town rather than a resort one. The fields around it grow dates, grapes, citrus and vegetables, and the people who work them eat in the town's restaurants. That is who the food is built for.

In practice that means taquerias, family-run Mexican kitchens, tortillerias, carnicerias with a counter at the back doing lunch. Portions are generous, prices are not resort prices, and nothing has been toned down for anyone's benefit.

It is a completely different meal from El Paseo, and the difference is not a step down. This is what the valley actually eats, in the part of the valley where most of the work gets done, and it has been that way far longer than the golf courses have been here.

Worth the drive from anywhere in these towns

From Palm Desert or Indian Wells this is a real drive east. The valley is long and Coachella sits at the far end of it. From Indio it is close. Either way, going once during a week here earns back the mileage.

Go at a normal mealtime rather than late in the afternoon. Many of these are small operations keeping their own hours, and a place packed at one o'clock can be shut by four. Cash still helps at the smaller counters.

Menus are often in Spanish, or in Spanish first. That is less a barrier than a signal you are in the right place. Pointing at what the next table ordered works fine and has never offended anybody.

If you are staying in Indio or Coachella, ask your local manager which places near the house are open the week you are there. Small kitchens open and close on their own schedule, and a list from six months ago will send you to a locked door.